Let’s revisit the LA County “A” ratings, shall we?

When people alternately describe a restaurant as having both “great food” and also being in kind of a “dumpy area”, you know for a fact I am going to kow-tow it immediately to such a place.  The City of Angels is built upon such eateries: sublime omakase sushi joints located in barren strip malls, great Chinese haunts located in nondescript Alhambran bomb shelters, and the world’s best pastrami sandwiches located on possibly the crappiest block in town.

Sultan Chicken is no different.  It has an “A” health rating, but I’m not quite sure how. I’m also not quite sure I care.

This is not a place to take a first date. However, this is an excellent place to take a fourteenth date. The rotisserie chicken here is on par with Zankou’s - try the #1 special with the garlic sauce. It is moist, delicious and the skin is glowing to perfection. My colleague also tried the chicken provencal (or is it provencial?) special with eggplant, which was lauded with personal accolades.

I’m coming back here soon, because I’m tired of schlepping to Hollywood for a good garlic chicken. Also, no need to bring a jacket on a cool spring day - its like 86 degrees in the shop. Try to snag a table outside amongst the Downtown riff raff.

Sultan, 311 W 6th Street, Downtown Los Angeles, CA 90014, (213) 236-0604.

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