Kiriko (www.kirikosushi.com)
Once again, I have a coterie of fuzzy pictures that completely understate the delectability of this establishment. Hey Apple, how about keeping some of that money you pay Justin Long to refurbish his water monkey tank and investing in a camera flash instead? Just a thought.
On the subject of money, some of you may be thinking, “How the hell does this jackass afford to eat out all the time?” Folks, the answer is two-fold: 1) I don’t have kids, and; 2) I subsist on a crude, Oliver Twist-styled nutritional paste between my eating adventures. It has made me a little irregular but what can I say, I’m dedicated to this blog. Speaking of which, I need a bathroom break, BRB…
…Ok, Back to Kiriko. Nestled in a small suite in the Sawtelle Japanese strip mall (note this place is actually on the Sawtelle side, even though its address is listed on Olympic), Kiriko is quite possibly the best sushi place that nobody has ever heard of in Los Angeles. At least I’ve had casual conversations about Sushi Park, Sushi Zo, Sasabune, etc. etc. but I’ve never heard of this place.
The avocado and lobster salad was a refreshing way to kick off the chef’s menu. Huge chunks of fresh shellfish. Fantastic. Of the sushi, the sea urchin was particularly buttery and I found the toro variations to be well above average. The monkfish liver was excellent - it was incredibly smooth. Usually monkfish liver tastes like fishy cow dung, but in contrast you will want to savor the sample here. The most interesting hot dish we ate was halibut wrapped in shiso leaves, then lightly tempura-fried and dipped in sea salt. This was a wonderful salty contrast to the cooler fish flesh plates. One note of detraction: the sushi rice at Kiriko was at times slightly colder and less moist than the most sumptuous counterparts at the more heralded omakase joints.
The waitress brought us a wonderful truffle ice cream for dessert while simultaneously imploring us to “please enjoy.” After every dish, it was “please enjoy.” After every exchange of smalltalk, it was “please enjoy.” S.P. noticed this and wondered out loud if the waitress would still say “please enjoy” had she been a doctor telling her patient he had gonorrhea. We concluded the answer was probably yes.
As for the ice cream itself, some people like a more subtle truffle flavor, but Kiriko’s truffle ice cream is homemade (ice shavings and all) and slaps you in the face with its robust flavor. Maybe this says something about me, but I preferred that methodology. Overall, Kiriko is completely off the conversational radar, which contributes to its charm. Please enjoy. - H. Lee
Kiriko, 11301 W Olympic Boulevard, Suite 102, Los Angeles, CA 90064, (310) 478-7769.
