The Bazaar by Jose Andres - (www.thebazaar.com)
My friend was in town on business and wanted to have a nice Sunday meal at a place where he could:
a) run into Hugh Grant in the bathroom;
b) feel like an overprivileged dickhole;
c) witness a 70-year-old smarmy businessman meet up with his high-priced prostitute in the lobby; and
d) sample some very innovative “molecular gastronomy” cuisine in a Philippe Starck building.
Logically, I suggested the very restaurant in his hotel lobby, The Bazaar. First and foremost, here’s a warning: you will feel like an asshole the second you stroll into this place. And if you don’t feel like an asshole, guess what? You are the asshole! Congratulations. If the movie “Pretty Woman” were filmed today, the scene where Jason Alexander tries to sexually assault Julia Roberts would probably be filmed in the lobby.
If you can get over the feeling of conspicuous-consumptive guilt (and I suggest you do), you have the potential to construct an extremely innovative meal that showcases Jose Andres formidable skill in bringing a touch of frouffy modernism to traditional tapas dishes. They have foie gras…except in cotton candy form. They have pork buns…except instead of pork its sea urchin and avocado. They have “cheesesteaks”…except instead of being diced by a sweaty guy in South Philly, its served to you by an elegant-looking Djimon Hounsou clone.
Sound gimmicky? For sure. But does it fail to titillate and impress? Not remotely. The uni/avocado “pork bun” sandwiches were INCREDIBLE. I wanted more. I stole my friend’s portion. The more traditional items, like ceviche, hamachi, oysters, etc. were all very good but I would recommend leveraging the dishes that require the display of Andres’ “gimmicks”. For example, the caprese salad employed mozzerella balls that explode in your mouth, much like the olives served in the $16 cocktails served from the innovative bar. You can ask the bartender a particular flavor or taste that you crave (mine was jalapenos), and they will mix you a very satisfying cocktail. But don’t have too many.
All things considered, The Bazaar is actually a great place to sample extremely innovative and tasty small plates that will heighten both your flavor and tactile awareness. It may not, however, make you completely full. We ordered around 16 “servings” for four people at dinner. We then went to my friend’s room upstairs and ordered a bunch of cheeseburgers and french fries through room service.
Oink, oink. - H. Lee
465 South La Cienega Boulevard, Los Angeles, CA 90048, (310) 247-0400