Church & State (http://www.churchandstatebistro.com/)
First of all, these pictures suck. I’m sorry, ok? When you invent an iPhone with a flash, give me a call. Oh wait, you probably can’t because iPhones can do everything except make calls. My iPhone can tag and purchase the most obscure Rick Springfield song from 1983 but can’t allow me to talk to my mom. Good times.
You are going to need a flash when you come to Church & State’s neighborhood. The words “gritty”, “industrial” and “gentrification” come to mind as you meander through the streets until you come upon the elegantly-lit, airy dining space of this out-of-place bistro. Frankly, I think half the novelty of this restaurant is the juxtaposition of the renovated dining space within the broader canvas of industrial blight. It’s a very, very cool feeling. And it didn’t hurt that it was raining as well. I felt like I was in my own novel about people who eat at nice restaurants in sh-tty neighborhoods who feel cool about themselves.
The bistro fare is straightforward and satisfying. Can one ever go wrong with steak frites or bernaise sauce? The great thing about Church & State is that you can construct a well-balanced meal, especially when going with a group. In this case it was ideal for my friend’s birthday. The Santa Barbara spot prawns were great for the purpose of sucking out the flesh, capers and roe. Throw in a gruyere/onion/bacon tarte, foie gras terrine (comes in a cool mason jar), delicious cauliflower or haricot vert and now you’re cooking with some gas! Like many other places, I think you’re better off focusing on the hors d’oeuvres and appetizer plates rather than the plats principaux.
If you want well-done bistro fare and also the feeling of dining in an urban oasis, give Church & State a try. And bring a proper camera-phone. - H. Lee
Church & State, 1850 East Industrial Street, Los Angeles, CA 90049, (213) 405-1434
