International House of Burgers
Kalbi Burger (www.kalbiburger.com)
We live in interesting times when I can march into a shack in L.A. and ask them to top off my burger with sauteed kimchi. While the Japanese Umami burger has taken the city by storm with its diminutive, yet powerfully flavorful hatch chile and truffle burgers, Koreans have counter-parried with their own culturally relevant short-rib beef patties at Kalbi Burger.
The difference in burger styles is allegorical to each country’s contrasting affinity for seafood. The Japanese have their delicately constructed sashimi, comprised of the fleshy, snooty fishes of the sea. The Koreans champion the ugly, deep-sea dwelling mollusks, clams, and octopi, each scampering until they find themselves thrown into a fiery-red stew. It’s more of a blunt, in-your-face approach to ocean delicacies.
Such is the difference in American burgers as well. Umami burgers are smaller portions and stand on the strength of their flavor. Kalbi burgers try to overwhelm you with the size of the short-rib patty and condiments, as if to slam a pot of kimchi jigae on the counter while simultaneously challenging you to an eating contest.
At the risk of being branded a traitor, this time, and in this context, I prefer the Japanese version over the Korean variation. Although I still prefer Shin-soo Choo over Ichiro Suzuki.
4001 Wilshire Boulevard, Unit E, Los Angeles, CA, (213) 738-7898
